Grooms: The Best Look For Your Wedding

For Grooms

There must be no other article of clothing that adds instant elegance and savoir-faire to its wearer. Think Fred Astaire gliding Ginger Rogers around the dance floor in his top hat and tails, Cary Grant romancing Grace Kelly along the French Riviera in To Catch a Thief, James Bond hitting the casinos and catching the creeps -- all while suitably attired. Although it's not as effortless as it looks in the movies, every groom can magically graduate from ordinary to extraordinary the minute he slips into his tux. It just takes a little know-how, because the world of formalwear is confusing territory. Here’s everything you need to know to navigate it.

THE RIGHT LOOK FOR YOUR WEDDING STYLE

Different types of weddings call for different versions of formalwear. The clothing you wear will depend largely on the time and location of your event, the size of the guest list, and, of course, your lovely bride’s attire. Use these general guidelines to match your look to the mood of your wedding.

• Semiformal, Daytime

Both you and your groomsmen should skip the tuxes and opt for suits (navy or charcoal are great year-round; reserve khaki or white for warm seasons). Choose a white shirt worn either with or without a tie.

• Semiformal, Evening

Go with a dark tuxedo and bow tie, worn with a cummerbund or vest. Your other option is a nice dark suit. Either way, your shirt should be white with a wing or turned-down collar. For summer weddings or tropical locales, white dinner jackets are an acceptable option.

• Formal, Daytime

You’ve got lots of choices: tuxedos, tailcoats, and gray strollers are all appropriate. Match them with a white spread-collar shirt, a vest to match your coat, an ascot or a regular necktie, and a pocket square if you’re feeling particularly dapper.

• Formal, Evening

It’s time to break out the black-tie. You’ll be wearing a classic black tuxedo with a white wing or spread-collar shirt, black bow tie, and matching vest or cummerbund. Formal four-in-hand ties (aka fancy takes on the standard necktie) are a more contemporary option for the fashion-forward groom. And if your wedding falls during the summer, feel free to don a white dinner jacket with formal trousers.

• Ultraformal, Daytime

Think cutaway coat, gray striped trousers, gray vest, ascot, and black shoes. If you want to go all out, you can also add a top hat, spats, and gray gloves.

• Ultraformal, Evening

Break out the white tie. That means a black tailcoat, black trousers, white pique wing-collared shirt, black vest or cummerbund, and white bow tie.

GOING SHOPPING

For most grooms, renting a tuxedo will probably suffice. Don’t wait until the last minute though, or you risk all the best tuxes being already reserved. Plan to reserve all formalwear around the three- or four-month mark. Call up a few tuxedo stores ahead of time to make appointments and find out their rental prince range, what they have in stock, and what kind of package deals they offer.

When you get to the store, the formalwear dealer will measure you (inseam, waist, jacket size) and give you a fitting before the wedding. Don’t forget to order all the accessories you’ll need: bow tie, cummerbund or vest, cuff links, and shoes. Plan to pick up everything a few days before the wedding to make sure it fits you right.

If you think you’ll have reason to wear a tux again in the future, it may be worth buying one. Look at it this way: renting costs about 25-30% of the price of a new tuxedo. So if you attend four formal events in the next few years, it’s worth it to buy. And as long as it’s a classic style, you’ll be able to wear it time and time again.

By the way, if you’re wondering why the cummerbund is always worn with its folds pointing upward, it’s because every fine-quality model was traditionally designed with a small pocket in a pleat on the right-hand side -- a handy place to stash opera passes, theater tickets, or, for your own purposes, a super sparkly wedding ring.

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